Exploring the city that ruled the Mediterranean
The famous city of Carthage – centre of sea power in the Mediterranean, birthplace of Hannibal, and backdrop to the tragic love story of Dido and Aeneas – is now a huge sprawl of ruins that commands land from the coastal ports of the Gulf of Tunis to the hillside of Byrsa.
Now Carthage is the must-see heritage destination of Tunisia, its palimpsest of Punic and Roman ruins a constant draw for tourists from around the world. The site is extensive, and most of the main attractions are a walk or drive away from each other, so having a good map of the site – or a driver who knows the area well – is a must. Entering the area from the south, you can’t miss the Punic ports, in what is now an affluent suburb of Tunis, where modern Tunisians come to get away from busy city life. The two ports, one commercial and the other military, are enduring testimony to the might of the Carthaginian sea trade and navy.
Tucked away off a road running past the commercial port is a highlight of Punic Carthage: the tophet – a sanctuary dedicated to the Phoenician gods Baal and Tanit, which contains many child graves. The tophet has long been central to an ongoing debate. Was it Carthaginian practice to sacrifice their children to the gods, or was this Roman propaganda circulated after the city’s destruction? Despite excavations during WWII and later in the 1970s, the controversy continues, and the tophet remains a mysterious place. The quiet sanctuary, with its small sandstone stele nestled in the shade of large palm trees, makes a stark contrast to the houses and roads in the urban district just outside, adding to the sanctuary’s otherworldly atmosphere.
The Roman villas on Odeon Hill
A glimpse of grandeur
The most-famous view of Carthage, as seen on most local postcards and tourist websites, is of the imposing ruins of the Roman Antonine Baths that stretch out along the waterfront to the north of the site. The walls, columns, and stairs that are still standing are only a fraction of the original structure, but they allow you to imagine the enormity of the buildings, the second largest baths in the world – especially impressive when you consider the complex was supplied with water from the town of Zaghouan via an aqueduct 125km long. The huge construction work that went into completing the baths, from AD 145 to 165, represents the importance of Carthage to the Romans, even after the Phoenician defeat.
The Roman baths may be the grandest and most monumental of the ruins, but – for me – the real gem of the site is found on the Odeon Hill, home to a number of Roman villas. When first entering this part of the site, it seems unremarkable, but follow the winding paths up the hill and you soon
enter fields full of ruins, half buried beneath untrimmed grass and bobbing buttercups. Carry on further, and you reach Villa Aviary, the best-preserved villa in all Carthage, complete with beautiful floor mosaics and marble statues looking out across the Gulf of Tunis to the double-peaked Bou Kournine Mountain in the distance. The other villas are not in such a good state of repair, but still you can imagine the people who lived in this district by walking along their streets and wandering into their houses. Away from the baths, there are fewer tourists, and you can meander freely between the crumbling walls and columns, admiring the view of the city beneath you.
Carthage is awe-inspiring; however, it is also frustrating. There is little interpretation on the site, and what is there is, is in Arabic and French – including all the signage and information at the museum. Like many archaeological sites in Tunisia, Carthage is in need of conservation and care. Many of its superb Roman mosaics have been transported to the nearby Bardo Museum, but a huge number have been left in situ, trampled over by tourists, or stacked up against walls in a half-hearted attempt at preservation.
From January this year, Tunisia has been welcoming visitors to the country once more, and hopefully this tourism will give a much-needed boost to the heritage and culture industry. After years of revolution and fighting, there is a danger that Tunisia’s next generation will see its own heritage as a burden rather than an asset, one that links it to the past, when it wants to look to the future. But sites like Carthage should not be neglected: not only are they vital for understanding the complex mix of Punic, Roman, Mediterranean, and African cultures that make Carthaginians who they are today, but through well-managed tourism they also have the potential to contribute a great deal to the country’s future prosperity.
BACKGROUND
Carthage was founded in the 9th century BC by Phoenicians from Tyre, and grew to be the capital of the Carthaginian empire. At its peak, it controlled the North African coastline from Morocco to Egypt, as well as much of the Mediterranean, including Spain, Sicily, and Sardinia. Defeated by the upstart Rome, following three punishing Punic Wars from 264 to 146 BC (see CWA 65), Carthage was rebuilt by the Romans, who saw the advantage of its strategic location.
FURTHER INFORMATION
GETT ING THERE: The nearest airport to ancient Carthage is Tunis-Carthage International, which is just outside the capital. Visas are required only for Australian nationals and for European nationals travelling independently. The best way to reach Carthage from Tunis is to take the TGM light rail, a 30-minute journey from Tunis Marine station to Carthage-Hannibal, which is the closest stop to most of the attractions.
ON SITE: The best way to see the sites is on foot. However, the site is large, so allow yourself plenty of time – and be aware that the hot sun presents a challenge, so it is advisable to take bottled water. There are plenty of taxis at the site, and fares are cheap. Plan your route beforehand to ensure you see as many of the highlights as possible. You can pay to get into each monument separately, but if you intend to see more than one, it is better to buy a DT10 ticket, which lets you into most of the sites. Bring a guidebook with you, as the on-site information is limited (and only in French and Arabic).
For more information, visit: www.cometotunisia.co.uk